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André Leon Talley, el legendario editor que derribó las barreras raciales en la moda

La industria de la moda se encuentra de luto, el gran periodista y ex editor de VOGUE André Leon Talley falleció este martes a los 73 años. Talley fue uno de los periodistas más influyentes, rompió los moldes de la época y se convirtió en él afroamericano más poderoso del mundo de la moda, fue la mano derecha de Anna Wintour durante 30 años, él era característico por su gran personalidad y por abanderar una moda con mayor diversidad.

Talley era un hombre que usaba grandes capas extravagantes y tenía amigos en estudios de diseño desde Nueva York hasta París: Marc Jacobs, Tom Ford, Diane von Furstenberg, Karl Lagerfeld y muchos más.

Su carrera en la moda comenzó en 1974 como pasante de Diana Vreeland en el Met. Impresionado por su talento, Vreeland lo introdujo en las filas de Warhol, tanto en Factory como en la revista Interview, donde trabajó como recepcionista. Comenzó a escribir para titulares como W y el New York Times.En 1982 se convirtió en editor de moda de la revista Ebony. De 1983 a 1988 fue director de noticias de moda en Vogue.

Se hizo un nombre con la edición norteamericana de Vogue, primero como director creativo hasta 1995. Tres años después regresó como editor en jefe, cargo que ocupó hasta 2013, para emprender otra aventura editorial en la edición rusa de la revista Número. También fue juez en America ‘s Next Top Model y presentó a Michelle Obama al diseñador Jason Wu, cuyos diseños usó la entonces primera dama en los primeros años de la administración Obama. 

Defensor de una moda más diversa que incluía más diseñadores y modelos negros, habiendo asesorado sobre las direcciones de estilo de la familia Obama,  el propio Talley habló en su autobiografía sobre el racismo que enfrentó a lo largo de su vida. “Cuando entré en la escena de la moda, las modelos negras eran las estrellas”. comentó al editor de su libro. Tenía un don único para escribir sobre moda y ocupó un asiento de primera fila en los desfiles de moda más prestigiosos de Nueva York, París, Londres y Milán durante casi tres décadas. 

“André, el que discutía en voz alta y volublemente, nadie podía hacer que la gente se entusiasmara más con los detalles de moda más insignificantes que él. Era magnífico, erudito y perversamente divertido, voluble también. Como muchas relaciones de décadas, hubo momentos complicados, pero todo lo que quiero recordar hoy, lo único que me importa, es el hombre brillante y compasivo que fue un amigo generoso y amoroso para mí” Anna Wintour, Vogue, 2022

Durante él estreno de su documental André mencionó para Vogue “Fui a la escuela y a la iglesia e hice lo que me dijeron. Pero sabía que la vida era más grande que eso., quería conocer a Diana Vreeland y a Andy Warhol, a Naomi Sims y a Pat Cleveland, a Edie Sedgwick y a Loulou de la Falaise. Y lo hice. Y nunca miré hacia atrás”.

 

 

 

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